TDA2003 amplifier circuit diagram 10 watt

TDA2003 is a robust automotive grade audio amplifier IC. It supports up to 28 volts of operating voltage and can withstand input voltage fluctuation of 40 volts. A TDA2003 amplifier circuit is very easy to make. It’s powerful enough to provide up to 10 watt RMS power easily.

TDA2003 is manufactured by many different companies but they’re almost same internally.

You may find TDA2003A, which is the improved version, manufactured by STMicroelectronics.

TDA2003 amplifier circuit diagram

There are several audio amplifier design based on TDA2003, you can modify your design a little.

The circuit below is my favorite.

tda2003 amplifier circuit diagram

These parts are not absolute, you can easily replace a component with it’s suitable substitute.

I’m using the 100nF polyester film capacitor to minimize the electrolytic capacitor’s ESR.

You may want to use an effective volume and and bass-treble control circuit before the audio input.

TDA2003 amplifier circuit Part list

Let’s have a look at the part list, though I’ve mentioned value of each component in the circuit diagram before.

  1.  TDA2003 audio amplifier IC   x1
  2.  1000uF, 25V capacitor   x1
  3.  200uF, 25V capacitor   x1
  4.  10uF, 10V capacitor   x1
  5.  100nF polyester film capacitor   x1
  6.  2.2Ohm resistor   x1
  7.  220Ohm resistor   x1
  8.  Strip board/Vero board   x1

These components are just for making the tda2003 amplifier circuit board. You’re going to need a power supply, connecting wires and other tools too.

Constructing the amplifier board

Making the amplifier board is rather easy, as it needs fewer components. A piece of strip board is enough to make it sturdy.

A picture below, how I made one.

TDA2003 amplifier circuit build

You’ve to make sure that the power input and audio output wires are thick enough to carry sufficient power.

Also don’t forget to mount the TDA2003 IC on a heatsink with a bit of thermal compound. Use the largest heatsink you can.

Power supply: You can use a power supply between 12 volts to 24 volts, capable of supplying up to 2 Ampere. This amplifier is somewhat immune to input power noise or ripple. But you should always use a power source with lowest possible ripple to maintain audio quality.

Future improvements

The TDA2003 datasheet mentions that it can normally dissipate 20 watts of power. The datasheet also mentions that it can run from a 24 volt power supply. It also can continuously supply 3.5 amps to the load.

So why not improve it to get 20 watts out of it ?

I think it’s just the matter of using a bigger capacitor at the audio output, a bigger heatsink and a suitable power supply.

TDA2003 is a single channel amplifier IC, I’m planning to build a stereo amplifier like 6283 amplifier circuit in future with two TDA2003 IC.

What are your thoughts ? Let me know through the comments.

TA2003P datasheet, pinout, features and circuit details

The TA2003P is a highly integrated AM/FM radio receiver IC, very close to CD2003GP. You can find TA2003P datasheet, pinout and other details here.

 

Features

  • Uses fewer external components.
  • No need for FM IFT, AM IFT, and FM detector coil
  • Adjustment free for FM detector circuit
  • Wide operating supply voltage range, 1.8V to 7V

This IC is available in DIP16 or SOP16 packages, pictures below.

ta2003p

 

TA2003P pinout

Below the pinout of the FM/AM receiver IC, collected from the datasheet.

ta2003p pinout

 

TA2003 datasheet PDF

You can find the datasheet from the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Sy87thl-LtWDN5LTFSRmdvUWM/view?usp=sharing

 

Example circuits

Here you can find a complete project on this IC, simple FM receiver circuit with TA2003P. This project requires just few external parts and it can can be operated from a 3 volt power supply.

There are few reference circuit provided in the datasheet, I’m posting some of them.

A tested FM receiver circuit.

You can find more about the above circuit in the previous link.

Now a dual band AM and FM receiver circuit, as described by the datasheet, tuned via a ganged condenser.

Use the circuit above to check a fm transmitter circuit, like in the link.

Reference Design – High power adjustable LED driver with MAX16835

MAX16835 is a current regulated high power LED driver. It can take a wide range of input voltage, also supports dimming via a PWM signal.

This IC is designed and sold by Maxim Integrated, specially for rugged applications.

MAX16835 can be used to drive a single LED or a string of multiple LEDs in series, more details below.

 

Targeted application market

Clearly this LED driver is targeted to where reliability is preferred over design complexity and cost.

  • Automotive Interior: Map, Courtesy, and Cluster Lighting
  • Automotive Exterior: Tail Lights
  • Warning Lights for Emergency Vehicles
  • Navigation and Marine Indicators
  • Signage, Gasoline stations
  • General lighting

 

Key Features datasheet of MAX16835

  1. +6.5V to +40V Operating Range
  2. Adjustable LED Current (35mA to 350mA)
  3. ±3.5% Output Current Accuracy
  4. Integrated Pass Element with Low-Dropout Voltage (0.55V typ)
  5. Output Short-Circuit Protection
  6. +5V Regulated Output with 4mA Source Capability
  7. Thermal Shutdown
  8. Differential LED Current Sense
  9. High-Voltage Enable Pin for Dimming Interface
  10. Low Shutdown Supply Current (35µA typ)
  11. Low 200mV Current-Sense Reference Reduces Power Losses
  12. Wave-Shaped Edges Reduce Radiated EMI During PWM Dimming
  13. Available in Small, Thermally Enhanced, 5mm x 5mm, 16-Pin TQFN Package
  14. -40°C to +125°C Operating Temperature Range

MAX16835 datasheet PDF > You can find the datasheet here.

 

Reference circuit diagram

Below the circuit diagram of a sample application, courtesy of Maxim Integrated.

max16835 LED driver reference circuit diagram

 

  1. The EN pin is either connected to input voltage IN or it’s driven by PWM signal from a micro controller.
  2. 5 volt at 4 mA regulated power can be drawn from the V5 pin for some purpose, like for driving a MCU.
  3. The current through LED can be calculated by this formula, 

 

It’s the first reference design circuit published on CircuitsDIY, hope you enjoyed it.

Few pictures and information are taken from Maxim’s official website in good faith, without permission. No copyright infringement intended.

MOSFET based delay timer ciruit

Sometime we may need to turn off or turn on a device after some time. That’s when timer circuits are useful. Here we’re going to talk about simple MOSFET timer circuits.

You can determine the delay of this timer circuits by calculating the RC constant, but they’re very unpredictable.

In fact RC time constant is not a constant at all, as capacitance can vary as high as ∓30%. So this timers are just for non-critical applications and educational purpose.

 

Why a MOSFET based timer circuit ?

First of all, these are mere experimental circuits to get a good overview of RC time delay.

I think they should not be used used for some time critical applications.

But what’s the advantage of MOSFETs over transistors ? Well, MOSFET is a voltage controlled device where transistors are current controlled. You can turn a N-channel MOSFET fully on just by touching the gate and positive point of the power supply, and the reverse is true also.

So the load’s power won’t start fading over time, it’s the biggest advantage.

 

Circuit 1: Turn on after delay with MOSFET

Let’s have look at the first circuit, the load will be turned on after some delay after pressing the On switch.

mosfet timer circuit

This circuit has almost 10 to 12 seconds delay to turn on the load. You can use other MOSFET too, but that should match your requirements.

Another point to note that you could use DC supply with this timer circuit.

 

Circuit 2: Turn off after delay with MOSFET

Now another timer circuit, which will turn off the load after some delay.

But first you’ve to turn on the load by pushing the ON switch for a moment.

I’m getting around 20-22 seconds delay time with this circuit.

 

MOSFET based timer circuit with relay and AC load

You can couple any above timer circuit with a relay to operate high power AC operated devices like heaters, fans etc. etc.

Below an example circuit using a IRF510N MOSFET.

Obviously you have to take care while building this timer with relay, as it’s connected to dangerous mains voltage.

 

Conclusion

Stay tuned, I’ll soon publish another tutorial about how you can make an accurate timer circuit with AVR micro controllers.

So do you have any suggestion or question on this ? Just leave a comment, I’ll be happy to talk about it.

220V LED circuit – AC mains powered LED driver

Efficient LED driving is tricky, you’ve to take care of both LED voltage and current.

Here is a transformer less 220V LED circuit, not very efficient, but very simple and quick.

This led driver uses just few parts, still capable of running LEDs from 150V to 230V , but the main point is it’s simplicity and low cost.

220V LED circuit diagram  and part list

First of all, have a look at the part list.

  1. 9x bright white LED, 500mW, 45-55 lumen
  2. 1x 10 uF 63V electrolytic capacitor
  3. 2x 470 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors
  4. 1x 47 uF 50 V electrolytic capacitor
  5. 1x 45 volt zener diode, like 1N4755A
  6. 4x 1N4007 diode or any bridge rectifire module, like MB6S
  7. 1x 1 uF to 1.5 uF 400V polyester film capacitor
  8. 1x 470 kOhm 1/4 watt resistor

Finally the circuit diagram, it’s fairly simple, have a look.

220V LED circuit diagram 3 Watt

Note that you can replace all components with their nearest value counterparts. Like A bridge rectifier IC is not necessary, you can easily use four 1N4007 diodes in bridge configuration.

In addition you can also remove the 10uF-63V electrolytic capacitor and the 45 volt Zener diode. I added them just as precaution to protect the LEDs from sudden power surges.

Setup details

This 220V LED circuit is as lethal as it’s simplicity, because it’s directly connected to the AC mains. Never touch anything while connected to AC power, just don’t be stupid enough to electrocute yourself.

It doesn’t matters how you connect the inputs to AC line, as long as you’re not trying to touch anything !

The whole setup is easily available to purchase with a nice casing. It’s recommended to buy one, very chip. Sample pictures below.

Back side of the LED lamp’s PCB.

Conclusion

While this mains operated led circuit is simple enough and cheap too, but it’s efficiency is low, probably less than 40% , maybe even lower.

So this circuit is not recommended at all for scale up, you’ll be loosing more power than actually some.

Here you can find a much more efficient but a bit complex 100V-220V led driver circuit ,  it can power up multiple 5 watt LED.

20 watt push-pull CFL inverter circuit

Here a simple but efficient CFL inverter circuit, capable of diving a CFL, PL or tube light up to 20 watt. You can use this circuit to power up mobile chargers too, while power consumption not exceeding 20 watt.

This inverter circuit is powered by a 12 volt lead acid battery, minimum capacity of 5 Ah.

This circuit oscillates at much higher frequency than normal AC. So you can’t use this inverter to run AC motors, fans or anything dependent on the frequency of the AC current.

CFL inverter circuit diagram and part list

Check the circuit diagram below,

CFL inverter circuit diagram 20 watt

Part list

  1. Q1, Q2  > MJE3055 or 2SD1351 or CTC1351
  2. R1, R2  > 2.2kΩ 1 watt
  3. C1  > 0.01μF 250V plastic film capacitor
  4. C2  > 3.9nF 2000V, film capacitor
  5. L1  > 60 turn of 24swg enamelled copper wire on 22mm x 15mm C type ferrite core
  6. XFMR, see details below

Transformer details

The transformer’s primary is made of 10 turns of 24 SWG copper wire, divided into 2 parts, total 20 turns, it’s on the first layer.

Secondary is on the second layer, made of around 300 turns 30 SWG copper wire. The feedback winding is made from 6 turns of 30 SWG copper wire, over the secondary coil.

The transformer core is a made of two 24mm x 12mm ferrite E cores, there’s around 0.5mm air gap between them.

Here another little different CFL inverter, up to 18 watts of output power and running on 12 volt.

Construction

I’ve got this CFL inverter circuit from a solar PL lamp driver, it’s constructed on a 1.6 mm FR-4 PCB, very sturdy design, pictures below.

Front of the PCB,

20 watt CFL inverter circuit

Back side of the PCB,

The 1N5408 diode is unnecessary, so you can remove it.

Wiring and setup

You can use this inverter to power a CFL, tube light or PL lamp, up to 20 watt.

When you’re planning to power a CFL, connect the A and C points to the CFL’s input. While powering a tube light or PL lamp, connect the input to point A and B.

You’ve to use thick connecting wires from the battery to this CFL inverter circuit, specially for long connections. Because thin connecting wires will cause much more power loss on the DC side.

Working of the CFL inverter

This circuit is basically a high power Royer oscillator. The output is a sine wave, due to the 0.01μF tank capacitor connected to the primary winding.

You can read about the working of the circuit here in details. Even there’s a vast research paper on this subject, in case you’re interested, link here.

Simple Piezo buzzer circuit with UM66T IC

A piezo buzzer circuit is quite popular to make  feedback or alert sounds. You can find them in wristwatches, cars, medical devices, sirens, panic alarms and like so.

In a previous post I wrote about how to make a self driving piezo buzzer with a 3 terminal piezoelectric element.

That buzzer works well, but makes just high pitch buzzing sound, why not improve it to make the sound pleasant to the ears ?

Part list

It’s rather a simple piezo buzzer circuit, just a transistor and a UM66T ic with few other passive components are enough to make it.

  1. One piezoelectric buzzer, 2 or three terminal
  2. One UM66T or BT66T IC
  3. One BC548 transistor or any equivalent NPN transistor
  4. One 4.7kOhm resistor
  5. An inductor coil, 1mH to 20mH, no exact value
  6. A power supply, 4.5 volt to 12 volt
  7. A little switch, optional

The inductor coil’s value is not much important, you can use anything between 1mH up to 100mH. It also doesn’t needs to be a sophisticated one. You can make it by winding 50 turns of enameled copper wire on a iron nail !

In this piezo buzzer circuit, the piezoelectric element doesn’t needs to be a 3 terminal one, as it will be driven by the UM66T IC.

The IC BT66T or UM66T are essentially same thing, you can use any of them. More details and pinout of the UM66T IC here.

Circuit diagram and project construction

This buzzer circuit is so simple that you could make it just by soldering the components to each other. But using a small piece of PCB or strip board will make it more sturdy.

Lets have a look at the piezo buzzer circuit diagram

piezo buzzer circuit diagram with um66t

I made the circuit just by soldering the components together, not so neat !

Piezo buzzer Circuit build with BT66T

I salvaged the coil from a broken CFL, inductance rated 5mH.

Note that the coil’s DC resistance must not be too high, typically less than 100 Ohm. Else the buzzer will start misbehaving.

How this piezo buzzer circuit works ?

The UM66T IC is the heart of the buzzer circuit, it makes the nice mono tone sound, which is a pulsating DC.

In the next step, the pulsating DC current is amplified by the BC548 transistor, the amplified output is available at the collector of the transistor.

The transistor’s collector pin is connected to the +ve of the power supply/battery via the inductor coil. As the current through coil varies, it produces high voltage spikes according to the varying music output from the UM66T IC.

Then the high voltage spikes goes to the buzzer’s main electrode through the connecting wires and makes loud sound.

Conclusion

That’s all about how to make a good sounding piezo buzzer with a 2 terminal piezo elemen. Leave your questions and suggestions in the comment section.

Simple dekstop audio amplifier by A6283 I.C

I got two creative speakers from a friend who didn’t need that. Since they are only speakers, and not with inbuilt amplifiers, it’s not possible to run those speakers from PC/mobile directly.

Amplifier:- Ampifier is an eletronic circuit which increase the power of a signal (here’s audio signal). The audio output from a PC/mobile is only few hundred milivolts peak A.C. signal coupled with a series capacitor, so we need an amplifier circuit for driving these speakers (rated at 5W). Note that the wattage is actual maximum wattage handled by the speaker in R.M.S. For some speakers you may see label as 400Watt P.M.P.O, that’s not real wattage. It’s the peak handle power for the speaker which occurs only at a moment of time. For a decent size room of 100-120sqft, speakers of 10-20watt should be enough. Here is my speakers. Since they are 5watts rated, total wattae comes to 10watts which is pretty normal for home usage. Now I need an amplifier circuit along with a power supply for the same.

After searching local electronics components shop, I found one ready PCB for my needs. It’s built around a setreo audio amplifier I.C. viz. A6283 (datasheet-292kb,PDF). A6283 is a well known I.C that’s widely used and is on lower cost side. The output is not as good as modern sound systems, but good enough for personal use. The I.C. can deliver 4.6watts each channel with 12V supply, so it’s adequate for me. For the peak requirement of 4.6watts per speaker, my power demand comes to 9.2watts which is almost 0.77Amp @ 12V. I had one 12V adapter lying around which came with my broadband router. I see that the adapter is rated at 12V 800mA. So this adapter can deliver the needed power to my amplifier.

Now I gather all the parts required for making the amplifier. Here’s the list:

  • 1x Enclosure. It’s a 3×3 PVC switchboard box in my case. (Rs.18)
  • 1xDPDT(SPST/SPDT will also work) switch. (Rs.10)
  • 1x LED (Re. 1)
  • 1x 1KΩ-1⁄4watts resistor (Re. 1)
  • 1x LED Holder (Rs. 3)
  • 2x RCA female socket (Rs. 10)
  • 1x 22kΩ stereo potentiometer (Rs. 10)
  • 1x plastic knob for potentiometer (Rs. 2)
  • 1x DC roundpin Socket (Rs. 5)
  • 1x 3.5mm stereo audio socket (Rs. 10)
  • 1x A6283 Amplifier board (Rs. 30)

Total bill for the parts is Rs.100/-. A general purpose 1Amp 12V adapter should be bought incase you don’t have one around. It will cost around 60 Rupees or so.

Now I am setting up the parts inside the enclosure. Front side is for interface and rear is for I/O. So, I install the volume control potentiometer, on/off switch and power status LED(including holder) in the front side. Next I mount the output RCA sockets, input 3.5mm stereo socket and DC socket to the rear. The enclosure box i made with soft plastic so it was east to make the holes by inserting hot soldering iron rather than drilling. If you are doing it by hot soldering iron then remember to keep a piece of damp cloth around. after piercing, when you remove the soldering iron the plastic stuck to the hot iron tip starts burning and produces harmful gases. Wiping the tip of the iron with a damp cloth immediately after piercing helps the plastic stick to your cloth and only a negligible amount of plastic is burnt by the iron tip.

For installing the volume control, follow the diagram as shown below. Incorrect connection will make the amplifier behave unexpectedly.

Now I connect the red (+) wire from amplifier board to the switch and then from the switch’s other terminal to the DC socket’s +ve pin. The black(-) wire from amplifier board goes directly to the DC socket’s -ve pin. The LED is put between the board’s power (after the switch). The LED’s +ve terminal is connected to the board’s 12V (+) through a series resistor of 1KΩ 1⁄4watt value, and the -ve terminal is connected directly.

The output port connections are directly connected from the given points of the circuit board. The input port is connected to amplifier board through the volume control as you can figure out by the above picture.

Now that everything is connected, I give it a trial by connecting two speakers, power supply, and an audio source (an mp3 player). Yes, it works!. I let it run at full volume for 30 minutes this way to check if something overheats or not. After 30 minutes I see the IC is a little hot. Since there is a aluminum heatsink installed this should not be a problem. Now I close the lid of the enclosure. I’ve designed a simple label for the top of the amplifier. This will make it look more techie, and hide the four screws. Below is the picture of the finished product.

 

Simplest SMPS power supply ever – efficient and powerful – from an old CFL

New to power electronics ? Here is your first SMPS project.

But a SMPS from an old/dead CFL ? Yes, it’s possible, with a little modification, of course the CFL’s ballast is in working condition.

This simple hacked SMPS is not just a toy, quite efficient and powerful too, while the output power depends on the wattage of CFL.

You can also hack an electronics tube light ballast for the same purpose.

What to do ?

The idea is to wind a few turns of enameled copper wire over the resonant series inductor of the CFL ballast and short the two active outputs of the CFL.

Low voltage output is taken out from the secondary, that’s all you need to do !

If it’s sounding too technical, have a look at the pictures below.

A schematic, which pins you have to short,

Here I’m using point 2 and point 4 just for reference purpose. You have a good chance that the shorting points are jumbled up, but they’re easy to find.

Real world example, front side of the CFL ballast.

In my case the Main inductor is connected to the point 2 and the series capacitor is connected to point 4. So I’ve to short point 2 and 4 .

Few pictures of how I modified the transformer.

Take the two output wires from secondary winding with a pair of long wire.

Calculating the secondary turns

I’ve made certain assumption that, 2 turns of secondary coil is producing approximate 1 volt, around 0.5V/turn. Got that approximate result after lots of trial and error with different number of secondary turns and connecting the output to different loads. Unfortunately I don’t have a multi meter while writing this.

Insulate the primary and secondary well before winding the secondary to prevent AC leakage.

Only use the inductor coil from the same type and model of CFL, else it may not work. As different types of CFL may use different types of coil with different inductance, and they’re matched to resonate with the tank capacitor.

Testing the SMPS

The output is high frequency AC, if you’re planning to use it as DC, you’re going to need a matching high speed Schottky diode like 1N5822.

For lighting or heating purpose, you can use the AC directly.

Running a 12V-35 watt automotive headlamp, approximately 80% of the normal brightness.

I left the setup running for hours, it heats up a bit, as in normal operation.

Transistors are heating a much less than my expectation, but the transformer core is heating more than expected, perhaps that’s normal too.

According to my assumption, the above setup with a 25 watt CFL ballast can easily deliver 12 volt at 2 amperes, and it costs almost nothing !

I’ll update the tutorial after buying a multimeter with more details about the output voltage, power and voltage regulation.

I’d like to know your experience on this project, so please don’t hesitate to leave comments.

DIY 3.3V USB breakout board, LVTTL and LVCMOS compatible

Nowdays 3.3V logic level is gaining popularity, almost every every new microcontrollers are working on 3.3 volt. The worst part is some of them are not tolerant to input voltage above 3.6 volt, while USB is 5 volt.

So if you connect a such microcontrollers to USB directly, probabbly it’s gone !

Here how you can make a simple 3.3V USB breakout board for your microcontroller based projects. It’s a really simple projects, but requires a little patience.

 

Part list

This project requires just few parts,

  1. A USB male connector
  2. A little piece of strip board
  3. One AMS1117 3.3 LDO voltage regulator
  4. Two 3.3V Zener diode
  5. Optional, one 100-220uF tantalum SMD capacitor

You can replace the AMS1117 3.3 regulator with any compatible LDO regulator.

 

Circuit diagram and construction details

Lets have a look at the schematic,

 

The best way to construct this USB breakout by etching a small double sided PCB, unfortunately I didn’t have a copper clad board now, so decided to make it on a strip board.

It took about one hour to build one of them from scratch, below the final result.

3.3 volt USB breakout board

Well, the male USB A connector is a bit rusty !

 

Notes:

While this USB breakout works perfectly with full speed USB devices[ USB 1.1, 12Mbit/s] like a USB AVR programmer or crappy USB hubs, USB optical mouses, but it may not work with USB high speed [ USB 2.0, 480Mbit/s ] devices.

I’ve tested the breakout with a tiny RTL8188CUS based USB WiFi module, which is a USB 2.0 device, just failed to work.

Also tested some USB 2.0 card readers, few of them worked, few of them denied.